When you join, the first foundation round is the same as the first foundation row (steps 5 b and 6) : knit the front-side loops and slip the back-side loops. Examples are circular-knit items like the 8-trick pocket hat of this KAL or a sock, OR an item knit flat and then seamed, such as a pullover sweater knit in pieces and then sewed together. If both fabric faces are the “outside” (reversible item) there is no “inside fabric face,” so the fix offered in this post doesn’t apply. This trick will NOT WORK for a reversible item, such as a flat-knit neck scarf. Q 5: Does this work for socks? A: Socks are a subset of the circular knitting referred to in question 4. It makes a lovely edge but it is a little fiddly to get the sock cuff started. Therefore, if I want to make socks by this method, I work the cast on and the first four foundation rows back and forth, then start the circular knitting with the first round of true k1, p1 ribbing. By knitting and slipping, then slipping and knitting, you are knitting the fabric out from the middle (In technical terms, you are creating two rows of “double-knitting.”) This fabric is half as wide on each face as single knitting, and twice as thick.
I find it best to make the cast-on and four foundation rows over a straight needle (or the straight portion of a circular needle) and then switch to a knitting in the round. I use a needle 3 sizes smaller than the size in which I will knit the garment. I switch to a needle 2 sizes larger after I have knit all four foundation rows–in other words, on the first true row of knit 1, p1 ribbing. You now knit the knits and PURL the purls (no more slipping.) Continue until the band is as wide as you want. On the second round, you must PURL the previously slipped stitches, while slipping the previously KNIT stitches. Why not just purl the back-side loops, instead of slipping them? If you were to purl right away, you would not have an nice, thick edge to stretch, you would have an thin, but wider edge, which would tend to flare and ruffle.
BTW: it is easy to hide the tail after sewing–just run it into the tube at the edge of the ribbing! Asset Import Export. Typically you import Asset master records: Book, Class and then you optionally run macro to update some of the fields. In other words, the cast-on is a series of stockinette stitches which lay across the provisional tail, and the loops on either side of the provisional tail are actually the “heads” (front-side loops) and “tails” (back-side loops), of those stitches. At the end, I use the hanging tail to sew up the little gap at the bottom. If theory and reasons don’t attract you today, you can skip down to the bottom of this post for the fix. The post also offers a fix for the problem. READ THIS NOTE BEFORE YOU READ THIS POST! Q 6: Last question: this post started with three different methods of tubular cast on: 우리카지노 Italian, long-tail, and provisional and you have described a fourth method in this post–provisional tail.
In the illustration at right, the provisional tail is the maroon yarn. You have now established a pattern where the columns growing out of the front side loops are to be knit, while the columns growing out of the back side loops are to be slipped. They didn’t, as it turned out. When you change a color, you are changing the color in the CURRENT row. Today: another great mystery–why knitting in more than one color, such as stripes, makes ICKY DOTS in ribbing.Icky dots aren’t confined to ribbing. Why no directions for circular knitting? Q 4: Why are the directions for back-and-forth knitting? A: By casting on in the middle of the fabric, you are actually knitting outwards in both directions from the middle. As you can see, what you have actually done is cast on in the middle of a fabric. The result is, the corrugated ribbing–not well suited to be a fabric edge–gets bordered with a structurally correct edge: a garment-edge which can take wear, yet will not flip, flare or bind.